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Monday, December 12, 2016

Snowflake Christmas Stocking or Slipper Boots - Free Crochet Pattern with Tutorial

My little girl needed a stocking to celebrate St. Nicholas Day in kindergarten.  Because she is a Frozen fan, I though she would like a snowflake stocking. She loved it! I hope you will love it also!

Free Crochet Pattern: Snowflake Christmas Stocking

*Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links.





  Size: 21 cm from toe to heel, 25cm long (the red stocking). The turquoise stocking is a bit longer - 27 cm - because I have worked more rounds before starting with the snowflake graph.


Snowflake Christmas Stocking 


These stockings would make great chunky & warm slipper boots as well! They could fit a child, but an adult women also, if you'll add more rounds for the length.  Check out also my Heart & Sole Slippers using a heart graph.

Snowflake Christmas Stocking - Free Crochet Pattern

Gauge: 14 sts  and  12 rows = 10 cm or 4 inches in front post double crochet

Materials used:
- yarn: for the red stocking: approx. half skein of Red Heart Sparkle Soft "Really Red" + small amount of Red Heart Soft "White"; for the turquoise stocking Red Heart Soft "Turquoise" and "White". 
- 6mm crochet hook
- stitch marker
- scissors

Many thanks to Red Heart Yarns for sponsoring the yarn used for this pattern! 

Stitches, Terms (US) and Abbreviations used:  
ch: chain
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
yo: yarn over
sk: skip
MC: main color (here red or blue)
AC: accent color (white)




Special Stitches:
Shell = 5 dc worked into same st

Front post double crochet (fpdc): Yo, insert hook from front to back to front around post of st indicated, draw up lp, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] twice.

Back post double crochet (bpdc): Yo, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st indicated, draw up lp, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] twice.

Surface slip stitch (see this tutorial by LookatwhatImade)

bpdc2tog inv= invisible decrease back post double crochet= yo and insert hook from the back to the front around the post of the next 2 sts (at the same time) on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc.
See this Video Tutorial by Woolpedia on YouTube! It's for the front post decrease but you can see how to insert the hook around 2 stitches. Do in the same manner for the back post decrease inserting the hook from back to front around the post of 2 sts.


Stocking Instructions:

The stockings are worked in the round starting at toe, then the sides and the heel are worked back and fort in rows. After finishing the heel, you will work in rounds again.

Version A (here red stocking) : Using main color and a 6 mm crochet hook start with a magic ring.
Version B (here turquoise stocking): Using accent color and a 6 mm crochet hook start with a magic ring.

Round 1: ch1, work 9 hdc into ring, join with sl st to top of first hdc. (9 sts)

Round 2: ch2 (does not count as a st here and throughout the pattern), *1 dc into top of next st, 1fpdc around the same st as the dc just made*, repeat from * to * around, join with sl st to top of first dc. (18sts)
Note: Throughout the pattern, the ch2 at beg of rounds will not count as a st. You will not work into or around the ch2 at the beg of each row!

Round 3: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 3 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 6 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts; join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (22 sts)

Round 4: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 4 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 8 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 4 sts; join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (26 sts)

Round 5: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 5 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 10 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 5 sts; join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (30 sts)

For Version B: Cut yarn. Fasten off. Join main color with a sl st and continue with row 6 as written below.

Version A - continue with main color.

Rounds 6 - 11: ch2, 1 fpdc around each st, join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (30 sts) Cut yarn. Fasten off.

Working in rows with fpdc on the right side and bpdc on the wrong side
Lay the piece with the toe facing down (the increases are on the sides and the joining seam in the middle). Count 11 sts from the joining seam to the right, place a stitch marker, then join yarn with a sl st into top loops of the 11th st.

Place a 2nd stitch market into the 10th st from the joining seam to the left. You will have 9 stitches at the front between the 2 stitch markers. (See the picture below!)


Continue to work row 1.

Row 1 (right side): ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 21 fpdc ( be sure not to work around the ch2 in the middle of previous round); ch2, turn. (21 sts)
(you will have 9 unworked stitches at the front between the 2 st markers).

Row 2 (wrong side) : 1bpdc around each of next 21 sts, ch2, turn. . (21 sts)

Row 3 (right side): 1fpdc around each of next 21 sts, ch2, turn. (21 sts)

Row 4 (wrong side): 1bpdc around each of next 21 sts, ch2, turn. (21 sts)

At the last bpdc of row 4 change to accent color at the last yo and continue with the heel.

The Heel:

Rows 5- 9: With accent color repeat as rows 3-4 (Uneven rows on the right side as row 3; even rows on the wrong side as row 4). (21 sts)
This is how it should look right now:

Row 10 (wrong side) Decrease row:
ch2, 1bpdc around each of next 8 sts, bpdc2tog inv, 1bpdc around next st, bpdc2tog inv, 1bpdc around each of next 8 sts. (19 sts)

Row 11 (right side): ch 2, 1fpdc around each of next 19 sts. Fasten off leaving a long tail that will be used to join the edges together.

Joining the sides at back of heel:
Turn piece on the wrong side and fold it in half.
Ch1, join the edges of the sides together slip stitching through both top loops of each side. Fasten off:
Turn the piece on the right side.

Continue to work in rounds around the foot opening:

Round 1: Join main color with a sl st at the back seam. Ch2, work 34 fpdc evenly placed around foot opening, sl st to top of first fpdc. Watch out not to make holes in the corners; if needed in the corners place your stitches around the st 2 rounds below.

                                (This is how you will work around the heel)


Rounds 2-5 ch2, work 1 fpdc around each st, sl st to top of first fpdc.  (34 sts)

Snowflake Graph: 
NOTE: How to change colors: work the last st before changing colors till half, having 2 loops on hook, pick contrasting color (CC) yarn and end the stitch, pulling CC yarn through the 2 loops on hook. (If you only need to work 1 st in a color, work the st till half and change to another color, finishing the st with the second color).

Do not not cut yarns when changing colors, you can choose to work around the yarn not in use, or you can carry the unworked yarns across the back. Keep the tension of the strands not in use a little loose, to maintain elasticity.

To avoid long floats of yarn, you need to catch the yarn not in use. Watch the Video Tutorial from Bobwilson123 for the Hat with Love to learn how to do that.


Begin Snowflake:
Note: Find the snowflake graph image below the instructions! 
You will continue working fpdc sts around each st; to simplify the written instructions and make it easier for you to follow the graph, I have only written how many fpdc sts to crochet in each color! 


MC= main color
AC= accent color


Round 6 : ch2, 8 MC, 1 AC, 25 AC, sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts)

Round 7: ch2, 5 MC, 1 AC, 1 MC, 3 AC, 1 MC, 1 AC, 22MC, sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts)

Round 8: ch2, 4 MC, 2 AC, 2 MC, 1 AC, 2 MC, 2 AC, 21 MC, sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts)

Round 9: ch2, 6 MC, 1 AC, 1 MC, 1 AC, 1 MC, 1 AC, 23 MC, sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts)

Round 10: ch2, 4 MC, 1 AC, 2 MC, 3 AC, 2 MC, 1 AC, 21 MC, sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts)

Round 11: ch2, 3 MC, 5 AC, 1 MC, 5 AC, 20 MC, sl st to top of first fpdc.(34 sts)

Round 12: ch2, 4 MC, 1 AC, 2 MC, 3 AC, 2 MC, 1 AC, 21 MC, sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts)

Round 13: ch2, 6 MC , 1 AC, 1 MC, 1 AC, 1 MC, 1 AC, 23 MC, sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts)

Round 14: ch2, 4 MC, 2 AC, 2 MC, 1 AC, 2 MC, 2 AC,21 MC, sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts)

Round 15: ch2, 5 MC, 1 AC, 1 MC, 3 AC, 1 MC, 1 AC, 22 MC, sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts)

Round 16: ch2, 8 MC, 1 AC, 25 MC, sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts)


Rounds 17- 20: Continue with MC, ch2, work 1 fpdc around each st, sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts). Cut yarn. Fasten Off.

Join AC with a sl st into top of first st of previous round and continue Rounds 21- 23 with AC: ch2, work 1 fpdc around each st, sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts). Cut yarn. Fasten Off. Weave in the ends.

If you are making slipper boots, the instructions above would be for the left foot. 
For the right foot you will work the snowflake on the other site, following the instructions of the snowflake in reverse, from the end of row to the begin of row.

Adding the Shell Edging:

Round 1: Join AC yarn with a sl st around the first st at the back seam of the first round worked with AC. Work loosely surface slst around each stitch of the round.  (See photo collage below!)

Turn the stocking upside down. We will work the shell edging inserting the hook into both loops of the surface sl st.

Round 2: ch1, *sk 1 st, 1 shell in next st, sk 1 st, 1 sc in next st,  repeat from * , sl st to ch1.
Note: Because the edging pattern is a multiple of 4 and we have 34 sts that is not a multiple of 4, the shell edging will need to be adjusted a bit. I made 9 shells around. 

Hanger:
Ch 20. Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and 1 sc in each ch across. Fasten off leaving a yarn tail that will be used to sew the hanger on.
Fold the hanger in half, sew ends in place on the wrong side of the cuff at the back seam.

I hope you enjoy this pattern!
For more free crochet patterns and tutorials, please visit my FREE Crochet Pattern Page!

Free Crochet Pattern: Snowflake Christmas Stocking
Written Instructions and pictures © 2016 Kinga Erdem. 
This pattern is free for your personal use, you can sell the products of your work, a link back to my blog would be appreciated. Do not use my photos for selling purposes or modify them in any way.
Please don't repost the pattern itself to any other sites, but please share the link to the pattern if you want to share the pattern with your friends. You may not give away copies of this pattern.
Do not make video tutorials or translate my pattern in other languages without my written consent!
Thank you. 

Kinga



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