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Friday, January 16, 2015

Heart & Sole Slippers| Women size | Free Crochet Pattern | Written Instructions and Graph| My Hobby is Crochet

The Heart & Sole Slippers is my second Valentine's Day inspired pattern using a heart graph.
The first one was "A Hat with Love", a cute hat with hearts going around.

*Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links.


Size: The slippers have a lot of stretch in length! Without stretching the slippers measure 24.5 cm (9.5 inches) in length; slipper circumference around the foot 23 cm (9 inches)
Please check your gauge and also try the slippers on while working.
For larger sizes work more rounds and rows.
For wider & longer slippers, you could try using a thicker yarn and larger hook size.

Small Child Size of the slippers available HERE! 

Materials:
- 2 skeins of DK / 8 ply yarn in red (color A) and small amount of white (color B). I have used Red Heart Lisa (available in Europe), but you can replace it with other yarn having the same weight. 
- 4.5 mm crochet hook (
- tapestry needle to sew in the ends
- scissors.


Gauge
: 16 fpdc x 15 rounds = 10cm x 10cm (unstretched) = 4 inches x 4 inches

Stitches, Terms (US) and abbreviations used:
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
fpdc: front post double crochet
bpdc: back post double crochet
st: stitch
yo: yarn over
slst: slip stitch
sk: skip

Special stitches:
standing hdc: standing hdc, See this Tutorial by Moogly!

bpdc2tog inv= invisible decrease back post double crochet= yo and insert hook from the back to the front around the post of the next 2 sts (at the same time) on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc.

See this Video Tutorial by Woolpedia on YouTube! It's for the front post decrease but you can see how to insert the hook around 2 stitches. Do in the same manner for the back post decrease inserting the hook from back to front around the post of 2 sts. 

Pattern:


Start with a magic ring.
Round 1: ch1, work 11 hdc into ring, join with sl st to top of first hdc. (11 sts)

Round 2: ch2, (1 dc into top of next st, 1fpdc around the same st as the dc just made), repeat around, join with sl st to top of first st. (22 sts)

Round 3: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 4 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 8 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 4 sts; join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (26 sts)

Round 4: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 5 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 10 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 5 sts; join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (30 sts)

Round 5: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 6 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 12 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 6 sts; join with sl st to top of first fpdc. (34 sts)

Begin of Heart Pattern  (See also the HEART GRAPH below!)

NOTE: How to change colors: work the last st before changing colors till half, having 2 loops on hook, pick CC yarn and end the stitch, pulling CC yarn through the 2 loops on hook. 
Do not not cut yarns when changing colors, you can choose to work around the yarn not in use, or you can carry the unworked yarns across the back. Keep the tension of the strands not in use a little loose, to maintain elasticity. 
To avoid long floats of yarn, you need to catch the yarn not in use. Watch the Video Tutorial from Bobwilson123 for the Hat with Love to learn how to do that.

Round 6: ch2, with A 1fpdc in each of next 16 sts, changing to B at last st, with B 1fpdc around next stitch changing to A when the st it's made till half; continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 17 sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.

Round 7: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 15 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 3 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 16 sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.

Round 8: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 14 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 5 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 15 sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.

Round 9: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 13 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 7 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 14 sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.

Round 10- 11: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 12 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 9 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 13 sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.
Round 12: With A work 1fpdc around each of next 12 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 4 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1fpdc till half, change to B and finish the st with B; continues with B, work 1fpdc around each of next 4 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1fpdc around each of next 13 sts, sl st to top of first fpdc.

Round 13: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 13 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 2 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1fpdc around each of next 3 sts, change to B at last st, with B 1fpdc around each of next 2 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1fpdc around each of next 14 sts, sl st to top of first fpdc. Cut yarn B.

How to read the chart: begin reading the chart from bottom to top, from right to left. The top row in the chart stands for round 5 in the written instructions and the bottom row in the chart stands for round 14.
The numbers at the right and the left of the heart are the number of stitches in color A (as written in the instructions above).


Rounds 14: With A work 34 fpdc around, sl st to top of first fpdc.
Rounds 15- 18: Repeat as round 14.
Note: It will be much easier to count the rounds/ rows on the wrong side.  Count the ridges on the wrong side and write down to make the same for the second slipper.
( At the end of round 18 you will have 17 ridges on the wrong side.) For larger slippers, continue until the desired length.
Cut yarn. Fasten off.

Start working in rows!
Note: ch 2 at beg of rows will count from now on as a hdc.
Left foot: Holding the piece with the back seam facing you, count 13 sts from the back seam to the right and join yarn with a standing hdc into the 13th st. Continue to work row 1.

Right foot: Holding the piece with the back seam facing you, count 14 sts from the back seam to the right and join yarn with a standing hdc into the 14th st. Continue to work row 1. (This is the only difference between the right and left slipper.)

Row 1 (right side): work 1fpdc around each of next 12 sts, work 1fpdc around both ch2 of previous round and next fpdc, work 1fpdc around each of next 11 sts, 1hdc in top of next st,  turn. (26 sts)
Row 2 (wrong side): ch2, (count as hdc), 1bpdc around each of next 24 sts, 1hdc in top of standing hdc of previous round, turn. . (26 sts)
Row 3 (right side): ch2, (count as hdc), 1fpdc around each of next 24 sts, 1hdc in top of ch2, turn. . (26sts)
Row 4 (wrong side): ch2, (count as hdc), 1bpdc around each of next 24 sts, 1hdc in top of ch2, turn. . (26sts)
Repeat as rows 3-4 until on the wrong side you will have 10 ridges on the wrong side (counted from where you began working  in rows).  (For larger size, continue until you reach the desired length.)

After 10 ridges on the wrong side, work a decrease row on the wrong side: ch2, 1bpdc around each of next 9 sts, bpdc2tog inv, 1bpdc around each of next 2 sts,  bpdc2tog inv, 1bpdc around each of next 9 sts, 1hdc in top of ch2. (24 sts)
Next row: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 22 sts, 1 hdc in top of ch2. (24 sts).

Joining the sides at back heel:
Turn piece on the wrong side.
Ch1, join at heel the sides together, sl stitching through both top loops of each side. Don't fasten off! Slip stitch back to top. Ch 1 and turn piece on the right side again.

Continue to work the cuff around the foot opening:
Round 1: Work a minimum of 36 hdc evenly spaced around the foot opening, sl st to top of first st. (36 sts) For a larger opening work more as 36 sts, but the total number should be a multiple of 2!
Round 2: ch3, sk 1 st, *1fpdc around next st, ch1, sk 1st*, repeat around from * to *, sl st with B to top of first fpdc.
Round 3: with B ch2, 1fpdc around first skipped hdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc, *1fpdc around next skipped hdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc*, repeat from * to * around, sl st with A to top of first fpdc.
Round 4: with A ch2, 1fpdc around first skipped fpdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc, *1fpdc around next skipped fpdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc*, repeat from * to * around, at the last repeat don't ch 1 anymore before slip stitching to top of first fpdc.
Cut yarn. Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

I hope you will enjoy this pattern!

For more free crochet patterns and tutorials, please visit my FREE Crochet Pattern Page!

Don't miss out new free crochet patterns, tutorials and other updates from My Hobby is Crochet! 

PS: Many thanks to the kind ladies in my crochet group on Facebook for helping me choose a name of this pattern! Check out our group My Hobby is Crochet! There's a lot of fun in there!

Written Instructions and pictures Copyright 2015 Kinga Erdem.
If you want to share this pattern, please share the link to this post. Do not repost/ reprint the pattern to any other sites.
If you want to share on your own blog / website, you may use the first photo in this post and link back to this post. You may not give away printed copies of this pattern. Thank you.
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