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Friday, January 30, 2015

Heart & Sole Slippers | Small Child Size | Free Crochet Pattern: Written Instructions & Graph | My Hobby is Crochet

This is a small child size of the Heart & Sole Slippers
(The little girl modeling the slippers is 3 years old.)



*Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links.



Gauge: 16 stitches and 15 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)  in front post double crochet

Materials:
- 1 skein of DK / 8 ply yarn in dark pink (color A) and small amount of white (color B). I have used Red Heart Lisa (available in Europe), but you can replace it with other yarn having the same weight.
- 4.5 mm crochet hook
- tapestry needle to sew in the ends
- stitch marker or a small piece of yarn
- scissors.

Stitches, Terms (US) and abbreviations used:
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
fpdc: front post double crochet
bpdc: back post double crochet
st: stitch
yo: yarn over
slst: slip stitch
sk: skip

Special stitches:
standing hdc: standing hdc, See this Tutorial by Moogly!

bpdc3tog invinvisible decrease back post double crochet over 3 sts= yo and insert hook from the back to the front around the post of the next 3 sts (at the same time) on the previous row. Complete as for regular dc.

Pattern:



Start with a magic ring.
Round 1: ch1, work 9 hdc into ring, join with sl st to top of first hdc. (9 sts)

Note: ch 2 at beg of rounds will not count  as a stitch.
Round 2: ch2, (1 dc into top of next st, 1fpdc around the same st as the dc just made), repeat around, join with sl st to top of first st. (18sts)
Round 3: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 3 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 6 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts; join with sl st to top of first st (22 sts)
Round 4: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 4 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 8 sts, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around next st, (1dc into top of next st, 1 fpdc around same st), 1 fpdc around each of next 4 sts; join with sl st to top of first st (26 sts)

Begin of the heart pattern! Graph available below! 

NOTE: How to change colors: work the last st before changing colors till half, having 2 loops on hook, pick CC yarn and end the stitch, pulling CC yarn through the 2 loops on hook. 
Do not not cut yarns when changing colors, you can choose to work around the yarn not in use, or you can carry the unworked yarns across the back. Keep the tension of the strands not in use a little loose, to maintain elasticity. 
To avoid long floats of yarn, you need to catch the yarn not in use. Watch the Video Tutorial from Bobwilson123 for the Hat with Love to learn how to do that.

Round 5: Continue with yarn color A, ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 12 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around next stitch changing to A when the st it's made till half; continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 13 sts, sl st to top of first st.
Round 6: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 11 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 3 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 12 sts, sl st to top of first st.
Round 7: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 10 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 5 sts changing to A at last st, continue with A and work 1fpdc around each of next 11 sts, sl st to top of first st.
Round 8: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 9 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 7 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1fpdc around each of next 10 sts, sl st to top of first st.
Round 9: With A ch2, work 1fpdc around each of next 9 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around each of next 3 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1fpdc till half, change to B at half way, with B work 1fpdc around each of next 3 sts changing to A at last st, with A work 1fpdc around each of next 10 sts, sl st to top of first st.
Round 10: With A work 1fpdc around each of next 10 sts, changing to B at last st; with B 1fpdc around next stitch changing to A when the st it's made till half; with A work 1fpdc around each of next 3 sts, change to B at last st, with B 1fpdc around next stitch changing to A when the st it's made till half; with A work 1fpdc around each of next 11 sts, sl st to top of first st.
Round 11- 13: With A work 26 fpdc around, sl st to top of first fpdc.
Cut yarn. Fasten off.


Start working in rows!
Note: ch 2 at beg of rows will count as a hdc.
Holding the piece with the back seam facing you, count 10 sts from the back seam to the right, place a stitch marker, then join yarn with a standing hdc into the 10th st. Continue to work row 1.

Row 1: work 1fpdc around each of next 8 sts, work 1fpdc around both next fpdc and the ch2 of previous round, work 1fpdc around each of next 8 sts, dc in top of next st, ch2, turn. (19 sts)
(you will have 7 unworked stitches at the front).
Row 2: ch2, (count as hdc), 1bpdc around each of next 17 sts,1hdc in top of standing hdc, turn. . (19 sts)
Row 3: ch2, (count as hdc), 1fpdc around each of next 17 sts,1hdc in top of ch2, turn. . (19 sts)
Row 4: ch2, (count as hdc), 1bpdc around each of next 17 sts,1hdc in top of ch2, turn. . (19 sts)

Repeat as rows 3-4 until on the wrong side you will have 7 ridges above the yarn join to work in rows.
After 6 ridges on the wrong side, work a decrease row on the wrong side: ch2, 1bpdc around each of next 7 sts, bpdc3tog inv, 1bpdc around each of next 7 sts, 1hdc in top of ch2. (17 sts)
(For larger slippers continue to work a few more rows as 3-4 before decreasing. Try the slipper on child's foot.)

Next row: ch2, 1fpdc around each of next 15 sts, 1 hdc in top of ch2. (17 sts).

Joining the sides at back heel:
Turn piece on the wrong side.
Ch1, join at heel the sides together sl stitching through both top loops of each side. Don't fasten off! Slip stitch back to top. Ch 1 and turn piece on the right side again.

Continue to work in rounds around the foot opening:
Round 1: Work 28 hdc evenly placed around foot opening, sl st to top of first hdc. (28 sts)
Round 2: ch3, sk 1 st, *1fpdc around next st, ch1, sk 1st*, repeat around from * to *, sl st with B to top of first fpdc.
Round 3: with B ch2, 1fpdc around first skipped hdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc, *1fpdc around next skipped hdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc*, repeat from * to * around, sl st with A to top of first fpdc.
Round 4: with A ch2, 1fpdc around first skipped fpdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc, *1fpdc around next skipped fpdc 2 rounds below, ch1, sk next fpdc*, repeat from * to * around,sl st with B to top of first fpdc.
Round 5: with B repeat as round 4, slst with A.
Round 6 : with A repeat as round 4; at the last repeat don't ch 1 anymore before sl stitching to top of first fpdc. Cut yarn. Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

Work the second slipper the same way.

Make the slippers non-slip using one of the methods compiled by Moogly Blog!

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Written Instructions and pictures Copyright 2015 Kinga Erdem. 
If you want to share this pattern, please share the link to this post. Do not repost/ reprint the pattern to any other sites. If you want to share on your own blog / website, you may use the first photo in this post and link back to this post. You may not give away printed copies of this pattern. Thank you. 
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