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Framed Herringbone 12” Square - Free Crochet Pattern: Written Instructions + Chart

The Framed Herringbone Square is a beautiful textured crochet block/square made with a combination of front and back crossed double crochet stitches.
You can find the free crochet pattern right here on My Hobby is Crochet blog!

Framed Herringbone 12” Square - Free Crochet Pattern

*Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links and at no additional cost to you, I might earn a small commission if you decide to purchase through these links. Thank you!

Beside the written instructions, there's a crochet CHART at the end of the pattern; that could be a great help for visual crocheters in placing the stitches right.

Once you learn the stitches, this crochet square will up pretty quick! I hope you enjoy!

Framed Herringbone Square

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Framed Herringbone 12” Square - Free Crochet Pattern + Chart

While crocheting the square, the stitch pattern will actually have a zigzag look, as seen in the picture below!

Framed Herringbone 12” Square - Free Crochet Pattern

To get the braided/herringbone look you will need to rotate the piece to the vertical. Below is a close up of the herringbone pattern!

Herringbone Stitch Pattern

(I have used this stitch combination in other designs also, you can find the links to the other patterns at the end of this post.)

SUPPLIES

  • Red Heart With Love yarn in 3 colors.
    For this block were used colorways Papaya, Iced Aqua and Lettuce. Total amount of yarn used: 60 g
  • 6 mm crochet hook
  • yarn needle
  • scissors
  • 4 stitch markers

SIZE

The crochet piece is a 12” x 12” square (30 cm x30 cm)

How to make other sizes: The stitch pattern is a multiple of 2. Chain any even number to begin.

GAUGE

7 crossed double crochet (each crossed dc is made of 2 sts) and 8 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches (10 cm x 10 cm)

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)

- ch: chain
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- st: stitch
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side
- Color A: turquoise (Iced Aqua)
- Color B: pink (Bubble Gum)
- Color C: green (Lettuce)
- standing sc: standing single crochet. See this Video Tutorial by Moogly!

- Invisible Join and Fasten of: See this Tutorial at Petals to Picot!

- csdc: chainless starting double crochet. See this Video Tutorial by Moogly!

Note: To avoid gaps on the edge, I have used the csdc instead of ch3 at the beginning of rows. You can use the traditional ch3 if you prefer that way.

SPECIAL STITCHES:
Variations of the Crossed Double Crochet: back crossed double crochet and front crossed double crochet (see description below!)
By working these variations of the crossed stitch, you will get stitches, which although crossed, are not entangled with each other.
Each crossed double crochet stitch will be made of 2 sts.

  1. Back Crossed Double Crochet (bcr): sk 1 st, work 1 dc into the next st, 1 dc back into skipped st going behind the last dc just made and inserting the hook from front to back.
  2. See the photo collage below:

    How to crochet the back crossed double crochet

  3. Front Crossed Double Crochet variation (fcr): sk 1 st, work 1 dc into the next st, 1 dc back into skipped st going in front of the last dc just made and inserting the hook from back to front.

How to crochet the front crossed double crochet

Alternating one row of back crossed dc with one row of front crossed dc, you will get the braided/herringbone look.

Important: The back crossed sts are worked on the wrong side and the front crossed sts will be worked on the right side of the work!

NOTES

The square is worked in rows back and forth, then the border is worked around the square in joined rounds.
The square has a right side( the prettier side) and a wrong side.
The first row and all uneven rows will be worked on the wrong side with back crossed double crochet stitches, while the even rows will be worked on the right side (the prettier side) with front crossed double crochet stitches.

HOW TO CHANGE COLORS

You will change colors after each 2 rows, at the end of a fcr row, this way: work the last dc in old color till last yo, join new color yarn and finish the st with the new color yarn.
Each herringbone braid/ color stripe will be formed of two rows: one of bcr-dc and one of fcr-dc.
You could also work the pattern in one solid color, but I think it looks even more prettier when alternating the colors for each braid.
You can either cut the yarns after 2 rows for each braid or you can carry the yarns not in use from row to row on the side of the work. It will be covered later by the border.

COLOR SCHEME:
Rows 1 - 2: Iced Aqua
Rows 3 - 4: Papaya
Rows 5 - 6: Lettuce
Rows 7 - 8: Iced Aqua
Rows 9 - 10: Papaya
Rows 11- 12: Lettuce
Rows 13 - 14: Iced Aqua
Rows 15 -16: Papaya

Border:
Rounds 1- 2: Lettuce
Rounds 3-4: Iced Aqua
Round 5: Papaya

WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS

With yarn color A chain 36.

Row 1 (back crossed dc row on WS) : Work 1 dc into 5th ch from hook; going behind the dc just made work 1dc into the first ch to the right of the dc just made. You just completed the first back crossed double crochet (bcr).

For the next bcr sts: sk next ch, work 1 dc into the next ch, work 1 dc back into skipped ch going behind the last dc just made and inserting the hook from front to back. Work bcr sts across the row till 1 st left, ending the row with 1 dc into the last st.

(You will have 16 bcr sts total and 1 dc at the beginning and 1 dc at the end of the row.)

(Note: the first 3 ch will count as the first dc at the beginning of row, the 4th chain from hook will be the skipped ch and you will work the 2nd dc of the back crossed double crochet st back into the the 4th ch)

Row 2 (front crossed dc row on RS) : ch 3 or csdc (count as first dc), turn, work fcr sts across the row till the last st, ending the row with 1 dc into last st, changing to yarn color B.
The first braid is now formed.
(You will have 16 fcr sts total and 1 dc at the beginning and 1 dc at the end of the row.

Row 3 (back crossed dc row on WS) : ch 3 or csdc (count as first dc), turn, work bcr sts across the row till the last st, ending the row with 1 dc into last st with color change B at the last yo.

Rows 4 - 16: repeat rows 2-3 always alternating the 3 colors after each 2 rows, ending row 16 with a row 2 repeat.
Cut yarns. Weave in the ends.

THE BORDER:
The border will be worked in joined rounds around the piece. I have made the first 2 rounds in color C, then next 2 rounds in color A and the last round in color B.
In each corner stitch you will work 3 sc sts!
The next round you will work the corner sts into the middle sts (the 2nd st of the 3 sc worked for corner) of the previous round. Placing stitch markers into corner sts would be a great help!
Each new round will add 2 sts more along the sides!

Round 1: Join yarn color C with a standing sc into first st (csdc/top of ch3) at the beg of last row; work 2 more sc into same st; first corner made!
Work 1 sc in each st across till last dc (32 sc made along the side!)
work 3 sc into last dc (2nd. corner made)
Turn the piece 90° to work along the side edge! Work 2 sc around the vertical bar of each dc on the edge; this means you will work 2 sc for each braid/color stripe! (32 sc made)
Turn the piece 90° to work along the foundation chains row!
Work 3 sc into first chain of the foundation row (3rd. corner made);
work 1 sc in each of the next 32 sts along the edge till next edge, work 3 sc into last ch of the foundation row (4th. corner made).
Turn the piece 90° to work along the next side edge! Work 2 sc around the vertical bar of each dc on the edge. (32 sc made)
Join with slst to top of first st (the standing sc st)

Round 2: slst to top of the next sc (the 2nd.from the 3 sc sts of first corner), ch1 and work 3 sc in same st(corner made), work 1 sc in each st along the side till next corner st, 3 sc into corner st, continue this way for all sides; at the end of the round, join with slst to top of first st/ or cut yarn and finish off invisibly.
You will have 34 sts along each side and 3 sc in each of the 4 corners.

Rounds 3 - 4: With a standing sc join yarn color A into a corner st, work 3 sc in each corner st and 1 sc in each st along each side.
You will have 36 sts along the sides at the end of row 3;
38 sts along the sides at the end of row 4!
At the end of row 4 cut yarn and finish off invisibly!

Round 5: With a standing sc join yarn color B into a corner st, work 3 sc in each corner st and 1 sc in each st along each side. (40 sts along the sides)
Cut yarn and finish off invisibly.
Weave in the ends. Block the crochet piece!

CROCHET CHART

Please do not share this chart or pin to Pinterst! You can save it to your pc for your personal use only! Thank you! To save the chart, click right mouse, choose "Save image" to a file on your pc.

Crochet Chart: Framed Herringbone 12” Square

I hope you enjoy this pattern!
You might also like other Free Crochet Patterns of mine using the Back and Front Crossed Double Crochet Stitch Combination:

  1. Chic Aran Cardigan
  2. Chic Aran Cowl
  3. Chic Aran Boot Cuffs
  4. Chic Aran Headband
  5. Go with the Flow Scarf
  6. Go with the Flow Hat
  7. Let the Sun Shine Sun Hat
  8. Crochet & Fabric Dress Elisa
For more free crochet patterns and tutorials, please visit my FREE Crochet Pattern Page!

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Framed Herringbone 12” Square
Written Instructions, Pictures and Crochet Chart Copyright © 2020 Kinga Erdem

This pattern is free for your personal use, you can sell the products of your work, a link back to my blog would be appreciated.
Do not use my photos for selling purposes or modify them in any way.
Please don't repost the pattern itself to any other sites, but please share the link to the pattern if you want to share the pattern with your friends.
You may not give away copies of this pattern.
Do not make video tutorials or translate my pattern in other languages without my written consent!
Thank you.
Kinga

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2 comments:

  1. Hi Kinga,

    I love this. I have been looking for a pattern for a throw for my reading chair; do you think this could just be extended with a longer starting chain? And if so how many multiples should I use (4 stitches, etc)

    I would make it all one color so that would, I think, make it simpler to manage. Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi Sasha, I have mentioned in the pattern, the multiple is 2. You can surely make it larger. It would make a lovely blanket/trow. Maybe the chart could help in multiplying the pattern for rows and stitches in the row also.

    ReplyDelete