Dreamy Twisted Rib Cowl | Free Crochet Pattern (knit-look)

Wrap yourself in soft texture and subtle color with the Dreamy Twisted Rib Cowl, a knit-look crochet design created to perfectly complement the Dreamy Twisted Rib Headband and the Twisted Rib Hat.

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Looking for a crochet pattern that combines texture, comfort, and modern style? The Dreamy Twisted Rib Cowl is worked using simple stitches and a clever construction that transforms a flat piece into a beautifully shaped accessory. Whether you’re crocheting for yourself or making a handmade gift, this pattern is both fun to make and easy to customize.

Worked with two strands of fingering-weight yarn held together-one solid and one multicolored- the fabric blooms into a subtle marbled effect, that’s unique to each piece.

It would also look equally gorgeous made entirely in a solid color, allowing the beautiful texture to take center stage.

Whether worn alone or as part of the full Twisted Rib set, the Dreamy Twisted Rib Cowl is a timeless accessory- cozy, textured and visually striking from every angle.

Construction

The cowl is worked lengthwise in rows as a flat rectangular piece, then folded and joined to create its signature shape.

Size

Teenager – Adult Women
Rectangle before joining: 22" x 7.5" (56 cm x 19 cm), unstretched.

You can change the size of your cowl by changing the size of the ractangle. For a larger cowl, start with more chains in a multiple of 2 + 1 for the turning chain! Add more rows in the pattern repeat for a wider cowl!

Gauge

14 sts and 15 rows = 4” x 4” (10 x 10 cm) in pattern stitch.

Supplies

• 2 strands of fingering weight yarn held together

Yarn Used for This Project

For the soft marbled texture, I held two fingering-weight yarns together:

• Hobbii Dream Colour (Unicorn) This is a 4 ply superfine yarn made from 100% merino wool, machine washable.
  Ball Weight: 50 g (1.75 oz)
  Length ca. 165 m (180 yds)
  
  
• Hobbii Baby Wool (Light Pink) Yarn Weight: 100 g (3.5 oz) per skein
  Yarn Length: 400 m (437 yds)
  Yarn Weight: Fingering, Sock
  
  

You may substitute the 2 strands of fingering yarn with one single strand of aran / medium 4 yarn that meets gauge.

I have used a combination of 2 different yarns yarns held together, Hobbii Dream Colour Yarn (shade Unicorn) and Hobbii Baby Wool.

Both yarns are very thin wool yarns - superfine/ fingering weight - and you will hold them together while crocheting as if they were a single strand.

I have used approx. 1 skein (50 g) of BabyWool yarn, shown here in colorway Light Pink (No.08)
This is a 4 ply superfine yarn made from 100% merino wool, machine washable.
Ball Weight: 50 g (1.75 oz)
Length ca. 165 m (180 yds)

and
50 g (1/2 skein) of Dream Colour Yarn
Yarn Content: 100% wool
Yarn Weight: 100 g (3.5 oz) per skein
Yarn Length: 400 m (437 yds)
Yarn Weight: Fingering, Sock

You will work with 2 skeins at the same time, holding the 2 strands of yarn together!!
The total amount of yarn used (the 2 yarns held together) was 100 g.

Yarn Substitutions
Can you use just one strand of a thicker yarn instead of 2 strands of fingerring yarn held together?
Yes, you can replace the 2 strands of fingering yarn with one strand of Medium 4 / aran weight (wool) yarn that meets the gauge of 14 sts pro 4" using a 6 mm crochet hook!


• 6 mm crochet hook
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• 2 stitch markers

Stitches & Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain
• back bump of chains
• st – stitch
• hdc – half double crochet
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side

Special Stitches:

• Yarn Over Slip Stitch (yo-slst) : Yarn over (yo) and insert the hook into indicated st; yarn over and draw the yarn through. (You have now 3 loops on the hook). Having the 3 loops on hook, pull/slip the first loop on hook through the next 2 loops on hook to complete a Yarn Over Slip Stitch (yo-slst).
Click here for my TUTORIAL!
• Yarn over slip stitch back loops only (yo-slst-blo) : work the stitch as described above, but inserting the hook only into the back loops of the stitches.
• Back Crossed Half Double Crochet (bcr-hdc): sk 1 st, work 1 hdc into the next st, then work 1 hdc back into the skipped st going behind the last hdc just made and inserting the hook from front to back into the skipped st .
You can find a TUTORIAL for the Back Crossed Half Double Crochet here!>

Notes

• Ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
• Always count stitches carefully.
• Even rows are worked on RS, odd rows on WS.

Instructions

Begin with hook size 6 mm and the 2 strands of fingering yarn held together (alternative with a medium 4, aran weight yarn)! Ch 87 .

Row 1 (RS): Work the first row into the back bumps behind each chain across!
Work 1 yo-slst into 2nd ch from hook and 1 yo-slst in each ch across; ch1, turn.
86 sts total

Row 2 (WS): work 1 yo-slst-blo in each sts to last st, work the last st with 1 yo-slst inserting the hook under both loops of the last st; ch1, turn.
86 sts total

Row 3 (RS): work 1 yo-slst-blo in each sts to last st, work the last st with 1 yo-slst inserting the hook under both loops of the last st; ch1, turn.
86 sts total

Row 4 (WS): work inserting the hook under both top loops of the sts 1 hdc into first st, then work groups of bcr-hdc across to last st, work 1 hdc into last st; ch 1, turn.
Total: 86 sts total; You will have 41 groups of crossed sts + 2 hdc

Note: we are working the crossed sts on the wrong side of work, but they will pop up on the other side, that will be the right side of the cowl!

Rows 5 - 7 : work 1 yo-slst-blo in each st to last st across; work the last st with 1 yo-slst inserting the hook under both loops of the last st; ch 1, turn.
86 sts total

Rows 8-30 : repeat from Row 4 - 7, 6 more times!
In other words you will have this repeat sequence:
1 row with crossed hdc sts and 3 rows with the yo-slst-blo .
(with a total of 7 rows with crossed hdc)

Cut yarn leaving a long tail that will be used to join the ends together.

Joining the sides together

1. Lay the crochet piece flat with the right side facing up and both yarn tails to your left side.

2. Bring left upper corner and the right bottom corner to the center.

3. Take 2 sts markers! Count 22 sts back from the corner along the edge of the final row and place a st marker into that st. (You'll have about 6 inches from the corner to the st marker!)
   Now from the other corner count 22 sts back along the foundation row and place the second stitch marker into that st.

(If you want change the size of the oppening around the neck, you can adjust it by leaving less or more sts in between the stitch markers - less sts for a wider oppening.)
4. Join the sides together either by sewing or slip stitching the corresponding stitches along the edges in between the 2 stitch markers.

5. The piece is now on the wrong side.
   
   Fold the piece down from the upper corner so that one half of the cowl turns to the RS of work.