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Ballroom Purse / Clutch Bag - Free Crochet Pattern

The Ballroom Clutch / Purse is the perfect accessory for weddings, parties, proms, banquets or other important occasions!
I wore it at an engagement party and I felt very fancy. It is absolutely an eye-catcher! I hope you will love it too!


*Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links and at no additional cost to you, I might earn a small commission if you decide to purchase through these links. Thank you! Some of the links are non-affiliate links and I do not earn from them.

This elegant crochet purse is adorned with a detachable chain strap, a metal charm pendant and an easy-to-use metal locker. It can be worn over shoulder or in hand as a clutch if you remove the chain strap.


The main part of the bag is made using just simple single crochet stitches, while the flap stands out with a beautiful textured stitch pattern, called the ball stitch.
The Ball Stitch uses single crochet stitches and clusters made of four half double crochet stitches.
The multiple for the ball stitch is 4 plus 3 sts, plus 1 for the turning chain.

For the bag I have used a beautiful sturdy polyester rope yarn, that makes the bag stiff enough, so that adding a lining is optional. I haven’t, but you can add one if you prefer!



9.5” x 2.5” x 8.5” inches (L x W x H) or
24cm x 5.5cm x 23cm (L x W x H)


11 sc and 7 rows in single crochet = 4 inches x 4 inches (10 cm x 10 cm)


The bag is worked from 3 pieces:
  • 1 large rectangle that will be fold over to form the flap and the bag body;
  • 2 side pieces


YARN: 2 skeins of Light Viscose Ice Rope.
( From the 2nd. skein you will need just a small amount, cca 35 g! )
This is a really beautiful, shiny and sturdy rope yarn that is perfect for bags, sommer hats and home accessories.
Tip: You can find it much cheaper on Aliexpress site here. (not affiliate!)
Material: 100% Nylon
Color used here 16 (Black)
Skein Weight: About 230g (±15g)
Length: About 200m(±10m)
Diameter: About 3mm
Product Care Instructions: Machine wash cold or gentle hand wash

5 mm crochet hook
Yarn Needle
Measuring tape
• 39.4" (100 cm) Gold Metal Flat Chain Strap for DIY bags (or replacement purse strap)
• 2 PCS O-Ring Carabiner Snap Trigger Buckle Hooks, 35 mm/1.38”
Tuck Luck, Metal Clasp Lock (Size: 1.65*1.18in/4.2*3cm)
• Optional: gold metal charm/pendant (I got mine on Aliexpress, here)


ch: chain
Back bump of chains (click on the link to open the page with my tutorial)
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
yo: yarn over
hdc4tog= half double crochet four together cluster:
(yo, insert hook into indicated st, pull yarn through) x4 times; you have 9 loops on the hook; yo and pull through all 9 loops on the hook to complete the cluster
slst: slip stitch
* to * : repeat the sequence of stitches between the stars
beg: beginning
RS: right side of work
WS: wrong side of work
Invisible Finish Off: after working the last st of the last round, do not join into round with slst, instead cut yarn leaving a few inches tail; thread yarn needle with the yarn tail, insert the needle from back to front under both tops loops of the 1.st st at beg of round, pull through the stitch, then insert needle between the front and last loop of the last st and pull yarn though. Weave the yarn end in.
Surface crochet

Ballroom Clutch / Purse

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The large rectangle will be started with the ball stitch pattern that will be used for the flap part, then you will continue to crochet the body of the bag using single crochet stitches only.


With hook size 5mm, chain 24.

Row 1 (RS): Inserting hook into back bumps of chains, work 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook and 1 sc in each ch across; ch1, turn. (23 sc total)
(Note: Working the stitches of the first row into back bumps of chains will create a pretty edge.)

Row 2 (WS): 1 sc in 1st. sc , 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, *hdc4tog in next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc; rep from * across, ch1, turn.
(You’ll have 5 clusters between 6 groups of 3 sc sts = 23 sts total)

Note: the clusters are worked on the wrong side, but they will pop to the right side of the work!

Row 3 (RS): 1 sc in 1st. sc and 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, *1 sc in top of next cluster, 1 sc in each of next 3 sc; repeat from * to end of row; ch1, turn. (23 sc total)

(With other words, you will work 1 sc in each sts across!)

Row 4 (WS): 1 sc in 1st. sc, *hdc4tog in next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc; rep from * to last 2 sts at the end of the row; work hdc4tog into the vorlast sc and 1 sc into last sc, ch1, turn.
( You’ ll have 6 clusters + 17 sc = 23 sts total )

Row 5 (RS) : 1 sc in 1st. sc, 1 sc into top of each cluster and 1 sc in each sc across. (23 sc total)

Rows 6-13: Repeat Rows 2-5. Do not cut yarn!

The flap part is now finished. You will have 6 cluster rows and the last row (row 13) with sc only.

Below is the crochet chart of the flap part made with the ball stitch crochet pattern:

Continue working the next 50 rows with sc stitches, as written below!

Rows 14- 63: 1 sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn.
At the end of the last row (worked on the RS) ch1 and do not cut yarn!
Continue working a sc edging, as written below!

Edging around the long edges and the flap:

Row 1: Turn the piece to 90° to work across the long edge 1 sc evenly (in each row end you will work 1sc stitch), then work 2 sc into next corner, 1 sc in each st along the foundation chains, 2 sc into next corner, 1 sc in each row end on the other long side.
Cut yarn leaving a long tail that will be later used to sew one side piece. Fasten off.


SIDE PIECE(S) (make two):


Chain 21.

Row 1: working into back bumps behind the chains, 1 sc into 2nd. chain from the hook and 1 sc in each of the next 18 ch, 4 sc into last st; continue working along the other side of foundation chains inserting the hook into back loop of the stitches 1 sc in each of next 19 sts; ch1, Turn!
(42 sts total)

Row 2: 1 sc in each of the next 19 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 4 sts at the curving, 1 sc in each of the next 19 sts; do not ch 1, but turn! (46 sts total)

Row 3: 1 slst in each of the 46 sc around the piece, continue working 4 slsts more across the top part of the piece. (52 sts total)

Cut yarn leaving a long tail and fasten off invisibly.

Place the large rectangular piece with the right side facing the table, having the bag flap (with the ball stitch part) at the top.
Fold up the bottom part so that the bottom edge will be placed right under the last row of the bag flap as pictured below.
Now the right side of the bag body (and the wrong side of the flap) is facing you.
Place the side pieces with the rounded edge at the bottom!!

Take one side piece with the right side facing you and having the rounded edge at the bottom. Align the edge stitches of the bag body with the edge stitches of the side piece.
The bottom of the bag body will curve along the rounded edge of the side piece.
Thread a yarn needle with the yarn tail, sew the edges together inserting the needle through the back loops of the edge closer to you and the front loops of edge further from you. Do not cut yarn yet!
Sew the second side piece in the same way.



Pinch the top of a side inwards as seen in the picture above and sew across a few times to secure. Make the same for the second side.

After shaping the sides, I have decided to work one round of slip stitches around the top front body part, sides and flap. This will give a nice finished look and will make the edges more ferm.

For this, hold the bag with the flap open and join yarn with slst to first st on the edge of the bag body (to your right). Slip stitch across the front edge of the bag body, 1 slip stitch into the pinched side, then work 1 slst in each st around the flap, 1 slip stitch into the 2nd. pinched side. Cut yarn and fasten off invisibly.

Embellishing the Flap with surface crochet:


With the back side of the bag facing you and having the flap open, join yarn with slip stitch into the sc row below the first cluster (ball stitch) at the right corner. Surface crochet across (the top of the flap) and around the flap as highlighted in the picture. At the end of the round fasten off invisibly.

Optional, work surface crochet around the front piece of the bag body.

Weave in all yarn tails. I have burned the yarn ends with a lighter to prevent the polyester strand from fraying, then quickly, while still hot, pressed it down with the help of the metal part of the scissors. (Do not touch it with your fingers please! It's hot!)

Adding the Tuck Lock

a) First attach the top part of the tuck lock to the flap. For this, find the middle of the bag flap; push the edge of the flap through the gap in the tuck lock, and press hard to lock it in place.
b) The bottom part of the lock will be attached to the bag body; align it with the top part and push the prongs down. Once the prongs are inserted, flatten them down.
Now the bag closure is all done!

Ataching the snap O-rings, the chain strap and the pendant


Insert one snap O-ring through the pinched side, going through all tickness of the dent created. Make the same on the other side.
Insert the metal buckles of the chain strap through the o-ring snaps.
Insert the o-ring of the pendal through one o-ring on bag side.

Congratulations! You have just finished your amazing little crochet bag! Now have fun wearing it! :)

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

You light like these Free Crochet Bag Patterns also:

  1. Raffie Crossbody Bag
  2. Alie Beach Bag

For more free crochet patterns and tutorials, please visit my FREE Crochet Pattern Page!

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Ballroom Purse
Written Instructions and Pictures Copyright © April 2024 Kinga Erdem
This pattern is free for your personal use, you can sell the products of your work (no mass production), a link back to my blog would be appreciated. Do not use my photos for selling purposes or modify them in any way.
Please don't repost the pattern itself to any other sites, but please share the link to the pattern if you want to share the pattern with your friends. You may not give away copies of this pattern.
Do not make video tutorials or translate my pattern in other languages without my written consent!
Thank you,

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